Sailors noticed that wet sails pulled better, and a cloth was born out of it. Josh Sirlin on the history of waxed cotton and the Black Bear Brand wax canvas jackets.

Craft & Materials, Fabric, Fabric Guide, Heritage, jackets, made in usa, outerwearJosh SirlinSeptember 13, 2026waxed canvas, waxed cotton history, wax canvas jacket, quilted jacket, mens outerwear, black bear brand jacketsComment

Goose Down, and the Seattle Man Who Put It in a Jacket

The quilted down jacket was made in Seattle in 1936, and the oldest one left is still in the city. Josh Sirlin on down, the Himeji leather yoke, and our goose down vest.

Craft & Materials, Fabric, Japan, outerwearJosh SirlinSeptember 12, 2026goose down vest, down jacket history, made in japan outerwear, mens down vest, himeji leather, black bear brand vestComment

The Peacoat, in Hunter Green

Josh Sirlin wore one vintage peacoat for more than ten years, then made the one he actually wanted. A first look at the Hunter Green, a custom color worked out with the mill, releasing September 22.

Craft & Materials, Culture, design, Fabric, Heritage, jackets, StyleJosh SirlinSeptember 10, 2026peacoat, hunter green, japanese wool, aichi ichinomiya, anchor buttons, made in japan, custom color, tokyo pop up, black bear brandComment

Why Wool Owns the Fall

Wool works wet, holds a shape for decades, and gets better looking as it goes. Josh Sirlin on the fall jacket, on tweed, and on the three that get woven for us each year in Scotland.

Craft & Materials, Craft, Culture, Fabric, Fabric Guide, harris tweed, JacketsJosh SirlinSeptember 9, 2026wool jacket, fall jacket, harris tweed, tweed jacket, mens outerwear, wool crimp warmth, autumn style, black bear brandComment

The Engineer Stripe: A Cloth Brought Back From 1913

A hundred year old stripe, read off an original coverall and woven again in Okayama. Josh Sirlin on the Black Bear Brand engineer stripe and the vintage engineer pant and coat.

Craft, Fabric, Heritage, Japan, Japan & Culture, materialsJosh SirlinSeptember 6, 2026engineer stripe, tcb jeans, okayama japan, vintage black bear brand, engineer pant, hajime inoueComment

How to Store Clothes Through the Off Season

Moths do not eat clean wool. They cannot. Josh Sirlin on what actually eats your sweaters, what cedar does and does not do, and how to put a wardrobe away properly.

Craft & Materials, Culture, Fabric, Fabric Guide, materials, Style & HeritageJosh SirlinAugust 23, 2026clothes moths, storing wool, cedar closet, seasonal clothing storage, garment care, protecting sweaters, black bear bran, black bear brandComment

Wool, Measured in Microns

Wool does not itch because it is wool. It itches because of a number. Josh Sirlin on micron counts, the prickle threshold, and why the coarser fibers are not the lesser ones.

Craft & Materials, Fabric, Fabric Guide, Heritage, materialsJosh SirlinAugust 22, 2026wool micron count, merino wool, lambswool, shetland wool, cashmere microns, itchy wool, tweed, black bear brandComment

The Henley Started on a River

It was underwear, then it was a rowing uniform, then it was a shirt. Josh Sirlin on the Henley, the waffle knit, and why a garment dyed thermal is worth the extra step.

Culture, Craft & Materials, Fabric, Fabric Guide, HeritageJosh SirlinAugust 16, 2026henley shirt history, henley on thames, waffle knit thermal, thermal henley, shell buttons, garment dyed, mens style, black bear brandComment

Why Jeans Fade Where They Do

Whiskers, honeycombs, atari, train tracks. Josh Sirlin on the vocabulary of a worn pair of jeans, and on the dye decisions made years before you ever put them on.

Craft, Craft & Materials, Denim, Fabric, Japan & CultureJosh SirlinAugust 15, 2026denim fades, whiskers, honeycombs, atari, train tracks, raw denim, rope dyeing, ring dyed indigo, selvedge denim, black bear brandComment

The Morning the Jacket Comes Off the Hook

There is one morning every August when the air turns. Josh Sirlin on the jean jacket coming off the hook, the white tee under it, and the tweed waiting after October.

What Ounces Really Mean

Weight is the number everyone quotes and almost nobody understands. Josh Sirlin on ounces, grams, and what a fabric weight can and cannot tell you.

Craft & Materials, denim, Fabric Guide, Fabric, Heritage, materialsJosh SirlinAugust 9, 2026fabric weight, oz per square yard, gsm, denim weight, 13oz selvedge, heavyweight terry, corduroy weight, black bear brandComment

The Color That Killed People

Green was the hardest color in the world to make, and then it was the deadliest. Josh Sirlin on arsenic, Victorian dye houses, and what a real green still costs.

Craft, corduroy, Culture, Fabric, fabric guide, materials, StyleJosh SirlinAugust 8, 2026scheeles green, arsenic green, paris green, history of green dye, victorian fashion, natural dye, garment dye, old money green, black bear brandComment

The Down Vest: Warmth Without Weight

Down is the best insulation on earth and the least understood. Josh Sirlin on fill power, cluster size, and the vest built for a Pacific Northwest winter.

Craft & Materials, Fabric, fabric guide, materials, leather, menswear, Style & HeritageJosh SirlinAugust 4, 2026goose down vest, fill power explained, down insulation, best down vest, made in japan outerwear, indigo steer hide, mens winter styleComment

The Weft: The Half of Your Jeans You Never See

Flip your cuff. That pale thread is the weft, and it decides more than you think. Josh Sirlin on twill, slub, and the hidden half of denim.

Craft, Craft & Materials, denim, Fabric, fabric guide, Japan, materialsJosh SirlinAugust 3, 2026warp and weft, denim twill, right hand twill, left hand twill, slub denim, shuttle loom, selvedge denim explainedComment

Harris Tweed and the Truth About Tartan

Harris Tweed is the only cloth in the world defended by its own Act of Parliament. Josh Sirlin on the Orb, the islands, and what tartan really was.

Culture, Craft & Materials, Craft, Fabric, fabric guide, HeritageJosh SirlinAugust 2, 2026japan tattoo law, tattoo legal japan, irezumi today, harris tweed, harris tweed act 1993, orb mark, tartan history, dress act 1746, outer hebrides, wool jacketComment

Five Colors, Then the Wash: Ivory, Old Money Green, Ocean Blue, Vintage Rose, Charcoal

You cannot buy these colors. Josh Sirlin on creating custom dye colors for Black Bear Brand, the garment wash that follows, and why no two pairs come out the same.

Craft, Craft & Materials, Culture, Fabric, fabric guide, Japan, materialsJosh SirlinJuly 31, 2026Comment

Indigo: The Oldest Blue, and Why It Fades Like Nothing Else

Indigo is the only dye that leaves on purpose. Josh Sirlin on Japanese indigo, rope dyeing, and the reason blue jeans tell you where you have been.

Black Bear Brand WOMAN, Craft, Craft & Materials, denim, Denim, Fabric, fabric guide, Japan, Style & HeritageJosh SirlinJuly 30, 2026indigo dye, aizome, japan blue, rope dyed denim, okayama denim, why denim fades, selvedge denimComment

What Fashion Design Really Is When You Do It Right

Most people think fashion design is sketching pretty clothes. It is not. It is problem solving. Josh Sirlin on how he designs every Black Bear Brand piece.

Craft, Craft & Materials, Culture, Fabric, Heritage, StyleJosh SirlinJuly 29, 2026fashion design, clothing design process, slow fashion, anti disposable, garment design, josh sirlinComment

Rose Red Pocket Bags: The Details Nobody Sees But You

The pocket bags in our WOMAN jeans are rose red and nobody will ever see them. Josh Sirlin on hidden details, the Edo merchants banned from looking rich, and why the best part of a garment is the part you keep to yourself.

Craft, denim, Fabric, fabric guide, Japan, materialsJosh SirlinJuly 24, 2026hidden details clothing, iki aesthetic, edo sumptuary laws, haori lining, japanese design philosophy, selvedge denim details, black bear brand womanComment

Beach Style Done Right, From the Pacific Northwest to the Coast

Most men get beach style wrong, all loud prints and flimsy fabric gone in a summer. Josh Sirlin on ease with real substance underneath.

corduroy, Fabric, Heritage, Style, Style & HeritageJosh SirlinJuly 23, 2026beach style, mens summer style, corduroy shorts, coastal style, sun faded, black bear brandComment