The Horween Leather Story, and Why I Build With It

The Horween Leather Story, and Why I Build With It

When I tell people our leather is cut from Horween hides, the ones who know just nod.

Horween is a Chicago tannery that has quietly set the world standard for fine leather since 1905, and building with their hides is one of the honors of my work. It started with Isidore Horween, a Ukrainian immigrant and master tanner. In the beginning they made strops for straight razors, until the safety razor nearly killed the business overnight.

Chromexcel and Shell Cordovan

Around 1913 Isidore invented Chromexcel, the original pull up leather, tough enough for machine seals in the First World War and airborne boots in the Second. More than a century later it is still one of the finest leathers made. Then there is Shell Cordovan, the crown jewel. It comes from a dense membrane in the horse and cannot be hurried, soaking in pits of vegetable tanning liquor for thirty days, shaved, steeped again, hand oiled, rested for months, and shaved once more. Start to finish, at least six months.

Five generations, one building

The family still tans in the same Chicago building, on much of the same original machinery, one of only a handful of American tanneries that takes a hide from raw to finished under one roof. Their president put the whole philosophy in one line I think about constantly. Our greatest enemy is the phrase, it is good enough.

Leather you earn

That is why I build with Horween. Our Western horsehide jackets are cut from these hides and made in Seattle. Put one on and you are wearing something that will scuff, crease, and deepen into your own, a jacket that outlives trends. The same hides show up in our Shell Cordovan boots and our brass buckle belts. There is a real difference between leather and Horween leather.

A Way Of Life.

Shop the Story

Black Bear Brand Saddle Western Horween Horsehide Jacket  ·  https://blackbearbrand.com/black-bear-brand-factory-store/black-bear-brand-saddle-western-pocket-horween-horsehide-jacket

Rough-Out Vintage Horween Belt  ·  https://blackbearbrand.com/black-bear-brand-factory-store/n0gr7nbwa6zebzimhnso2zpmw38x5z-xka5p

All Footwear  ·  https://blackbearbrand.com/black-bear-brand-factory-store?category=Footwear