- Cinematographer - Jorge Jovel
The Union of Maker approach to manufacturing. Fueled by curiosity and determination, we are driving the revived Black Bear Brand forward by exploring classic processes, products, places, people - and we will make an impact on the world. This journey has just begun. And it is the start of something with limitless possibilities.
My 1948 Panhead chopper launched me into the world of motorcycles–especially anything related to antique Harley Davidson. This bike is true to what a chopper is known for, made up of a 1948 Panhead motor matched to a ’51 transmission and a ‘53 frame.
This bike was the beginning of a new journey opening up something genuine; new experiences and the forging of new relationships. I spent hours searching for vintage parts, so while I was following up on an ad for a 1948 tank emblem, thats when I met Jeff Coffman. Jeff and I connected, and traded emails regarding parts and pictures of bikes. This quickly led to us jumping on a call.
During the call, Jeff invited me down to his shop outside of Portland to see his parts first hand. I knew there was a story there; I wanted to learn more about Jeff, and see all the Harley Davidson bikes and parts he has. There was also an underlying hope that this might be the place I find a bike that fast tracks the brand into The Race of Gentlemen.
With an open plan and a chance to see, photograph, and explore the story of someone very interesting, the chance atanother Black Bear Brand story had presented itself.
Needing talented individuals to come along and record our journey, I decided to invite one of the brands main photographers: Chad Lyons. Chad has been an integral part of the brands stories over these past 2 years and as I presented him with the opportunity, he quickly agreed to come along for the ride. I also invited Ian Beaudoux, a killer cinematographer who I had recently connected with about a handful of ideas, stories, and similar interests. The group was off and ready to Dundee, Oregon.
Jeff’s American Classics is a shop with an overwhelming amount of Harley Davidson history. At every turn you see more authentic bikes, parts, and pieces than you can wrap your head around.
Jeff is all old school, and all biker; no bullshit. He has a wealth of knowledge about Harley Davidson’s beyond what I’ve ever experienced and I was ready to see just how far his knowledge would take us.
As we walked through room after room, we talked about the parts, designs, and fabrication methods that help define the model and year each goes to. Jeffs passion for authentic builds was something I shared as well.
The day was spent walking though the shop with Jeff answering my questions and learning more about his history. It was simply wild.
Jeff’s life was motorcycles. It quickly became clear just how connected to the culture he was. It was a part of him and it was something I wanted to be a part of.
The day was certainly fun. We learned and saw a lot. We shared a day talking about Harley Davidson, Black Bear Brand, passions, history, and the meaning of life as we each saw it.
The day didn't conclude on anything specific but it was through this I decided I was going to find a way to build a Harley Davidson from the ground up. The bike we would enter into TROG had to be 100% real deal with NO re-pop shit; and Jeff was going to be a big part of it.
This was the start of something more than a friendship. To me Jeff was like a teacher. A mentor, guiding me, and passing on a piece of his knowledge and experience.
photos by: Chad Lyons
At Black Bear Brand, our purpose is fueled by making and doing. Drawing from the past, we explore and attack our goals. The desire and determination to compete in The Race of Gentlemen fits like a glove as part of Black Bear Brand and our approach as a Union of Makers.
“Comradery makes it possible to race a bike. A team makes it possible. The race celebrates working together and we need that more than ever in America today”
The Race of Gentlemen is a celebration of our American history in the best way. I am drawn to TROG by everything it invokes: my love for America, Harley Davidson, speed, machines, racing, building, charging, team work, reflecting on history, and doing things that have a meaning. I decided I had to participate in this event. I didn’t know how I would do it, I didn’t have the right bike, I didn’t have anything I needed. I’ve been in this situation before when I wanted something, I felt that I needed to do it, and that was all it took. My determination took over at that point, and sometimes determination is all that is needed.
Here’s the intro video to the story about the parts that went into our TROG bike build. The Race Of Gentlemen...
Cinematographer: Ian Beaudoux
Each story is a start of a relationship with a person, a craft, a new rabbit hole that opens up to limitless possibilities.
Ryan Arnold; a killer painter and so much more…
an engine builder
a machinist
a fabricator
a watch technician/maker
an inventor…
Black Bear Brand is about having a relationship with life, having a relationship with what you do… and participating in life. The part of our stories I love is the ability to participate and be more than a spectator.
its the places you go.
its the things you see.
its the people you meet.
its a journey.
its an adventure.
its the timeless, ageless appeal of freedom.
What's now in play with Ryan is beyond what I imagined when we started talking. More coming soon.
10 ft by. 6.5 ft pencil drawings on an acrylic and oil background... - Paul Kaiser
"American Made” from Josh Sirlin on Vimeo.
A Harley Davidson motorcycle is much more than a machine…
its the places you go.
its the things you see.
its the people you meet.
its a journey.
its an adventure.
its the timeless, ageless appeal of freedom.
While searching the internet for an original 1948 Panhead tank emblem… I stumbled upon a craigslist advertisement for general Panhead and Knucklehead parts and shot off an email with a few questions. I received a quick response, followed by a few phone calls and here we go…
Now my interest had a lot more to it.
I want to learn more about Jeff, his story, his life long devotion to Harley Davidson motorcycles, the amazing history of all the Harley Davidson bikes and parts he has and works with every day… and the idea of a Knucklehead build I want to do.
I’m proud to introduce a new friend and motorcycle mentor… Jeff Coffman!
So much more to come… this is just the beginning.
Next; cinematographer Ian Beaudux brings the story to life.
Photos by: Chad Lyons
Once the largest facility for mentally ill people in Washington State, Northern State Mental Hospital was a town unto itself.
The Olmstead Brothers, whose father was famous for having designed New York City’s Central Park, designed the landscape at Northern State. Renowned architects Saunders and Lawton designed the hospital’s buildings. They worked in close collaboration with Northern State’s farm superintendent to create a self-sustaining and therapeutic colony for the mentally ill.
The hospital site included patient and staff housing, a water reservoir, sewage system, lumber mill, quarry, steam plant, greenhouse, canning facilities, gymnasium, library, laundry, dining room, bakery, dairy, and 700-acre farm for growing vegetables and raising livestock.
Nearly 2,000 patients lived at this psychiatric clinic. Some died naturally but some were murdered through strenuous physical labor, electroshock therapy, sterilization and even lobotomies. There have been a variety of ghost sightings here, including a man being pushed in a wheelchair by a nurse!
Northern State Mental Hospital closed its doors in 1976 after the State Legislature cut off funding. - photos by: Chad Lyons
As we explored what we needed in our knit collection we started on the search for the right people to work with.
In Centralia WA, a small town about an hour south of Seattle, there’s a knitting mill that’s been producing knitwear, jackets, and textiles since 1939. This mill is nearly unchanged and still producing high quality, hand crafted knitwear the same way today. This is where our journey with Centralia Knitting Mills begins.
Starting with specific design goals we became very involved in entire process as the design needs intertwines with the manufacturing process.
Being engaged in the process and keeping the close connection of the purpose and design with the manufacturing process is essential.
A new stitch was born through this process, everything evolved as we worked together to meet each detail. This new stitch has been proudly named the “Black Bear Stitch” by Centralia Knitting Mills.
This process has started off something special. Our stitch is evolving...
Stone Blue Corduroy; Grey Nylon Liner; Leather Reinforced Snap
Khaki Corduroy; Black Nylon Liner; Leather Reinforced Snap
Navy Duck Canvas; Black Nylon Liner; Leather Reinforced Snap
Black 60/40; Khaki Nylon Liner; Leather Reinforced Snap
Grey Pendleton Wool; Black Nylon Liner; Black Corduroy Accents; Leather Reinforced Snaps
Navy Pendleton Wool; Grey Nylon Liner; Navy Corduroy Accents; Leather Reinforced Snap
Black Pendleton Wool; Navy Nylon Liner; Navy Corduroy Accents; Leather Reinforced Snaps
“Photos: Paul Kaiser”
photo: Chad Lyons
photo: Chad Lyons
photo: Chad Lyons
I find it is essential to our brand that we at Black Manufacturing be personally engaged in every step of the making of our products— concept, design, material selection, and production. When we work with others, we become closely familiar with those people. We become as involved as is possible with the people behind the process, behind making. They are often the heartbeat of what makes these products special. We also study and embrace the practices and the history of their companies. To us, the process of making is our story.
When I first began my exploration of leather I reached out to Horween Tannery knowing of their reputation for excellence. This relationship has developed into something I never could’ve imagined. I consider myself very fortunate for their guidance and expertise. We at Black Bear Brand strive to offer items of the highest quality, and the people at Horween Leather Co. are a great partner to us on our journey.
We've worked with Horween on several Black Bear Brand products, a visit was past due. So when an opportunity recently came about, I was excited to take it. The timing was perfect. We’d just completed the samples of each of our 4 upcoming boots, Nick and I were working on a design for a Horween shirt, and my friend (and Black Bear Brand Photographer) Chad Lyons also happened to be passing through the Midwest. The stars had aligned, and so I shot off for Chicago.
The Horween Tannery is located in an industrial area of North Chicago. When I got there that morning, I was taken away by their presence there. The Horween family has been operating here through 5 generations and for more than a century. The tannery is imposing. It’s all brick, with an unassuming, plain wood door for the entrance. There is a small sign outside that is the only indication you’re at the right spot. The door opens to a small wood stairway that leads to a small waiting room. Everything about the entrance to the tannery is right down to business. It’s direct and purposeful, there is nothing added for flair. There are two church style pews facing each other and a dumbwaiter door where the receptionist greets you. I could feel the history here as I sat waiting; the essence of a place like Horween can’t be replicated.
Nick grabbed us out of the waiting room and off we went. He took us through each step of the tanning. We started in the receiving area, where the hides—hair and all—are delivered by truck. The attention to detail was immediately apparent. Every single hide is closely gone over and separated. The separated hides are then sent off with a specific tanning method, and even customer, in mind. Every detail is taken into consideration for the sake of quality.
The tannery nearly overwhelms the senses. The moment I walked in the door I was overtaken by a scent that brought to mind an old scotch I used to drink. Walking into the receiving room, where the natural hides come off of the trucks, a heavy, deathly type of smell fills the air. During waxing, oiling, and glazing, you pass pungent odors and then smoothing scents. And the classic smell of leather is pervasive. Some leather types require a good amount of heat, and there are different liquids throughout the place. All these things happening together produce create an actual sensory overload.
Each step of the tanning method is involved and they do it at a scale that’s impressive. The Horween Tannery is the real deal, they have been doing it forever and have always stayed true to who they are. In fact, there are actually chalkboards hanging on walls with recipes written on them that look as if they could’ve been there since the beginning. I believe it’s rare to be able to hang onto all the specialness of doing something the same way, and at such an exceptional level for so long, never losing your true character by giving into technology or fads. Horween Leather Company is timeless. That’s not by intention, or by a marketing design. Instead, it’s because that's really how true they are. They simply do what they know works, and by just doing that simple thing, they are totally killer.
I feel a connection to the Horween approach. They have a connection to their process and their product that is unmatched; its motivating, inspiring. Skip and Nick Horween, and their deep generational love, devotion, and knowledge to the world of leather, have shown me unlimited future possibilities for the brand I represent.
The unwavering need to work with, learn from, and team with the best is what initially drew me to Horween. Black Bear Brand is about learning by doing—being engaged in each process. We design and work with a purpose, and we have a vision to work with others that share a goal to elevate others in producing great items. In getting to know Horween Leather Co., that is exactly what has come to be. And the more I learn from them, the more I realize how much I’m unaware of. The more we learn, the better we become at Black Manufacturing.
After making our way through the tannery, we had a chance to sit down and share a little more of what each of our companies do. Horween’s office is scattered with cool stuff, including a handful of NFL footballs that Wilson has been making out of their leather for nearly a century. I brought some of upcoming pieces from our Fall/Winter jacket collection that I thought they’d dig. It was a fun opportunity to share in person some of our stuff that no one has seen yet.
My process of design is what I call “curating.” It’s a process that involves multiple parties. One example is the boots that I brought along to show. These boots are made by Dayton Boot Co. using Horween leather, and have been 9 months in the making. I look at them as just a start to the collection that we will be doing with Horween. I’m proud of what we have been able to collectively design and make, and I’m excited to be a catalyst of what’s evolving out of this cooperation. We know that the best of what we can do is yet to come.
- Josh Sirlin
